The printing process is the ultimate test of the quality of a photograph. Printing will place new technical demands on an image when it will be reproduced with the same clarity and color as you see it on your computer screen.

Most of the desktop computer systems already have a color printer, special gadgets or equipment is not necessary. You can easily produce copies of your images at the sizes you require by cropping it. But even if you don’t have a printer, there are many local printer businesses in every mall and even online processing sites over the internet.

There are many types of printers to choose from. One of the more common ones are inkjet printers. This is the best choice for home use. Laser printer is another option but it performs better for office use because it prints text fast. An inkjet printer outperforms a laser printer when reproducing photographs. They work by squirting microscopic drops of ink onto paper. The colors of a printer don’t come in the usual primary colors seen on a computer screen and digital cameras but rather they are a combination of cyan, magenta, black and yellow. The printer’s software automatically converts your image from RGB to a digital CMYK form.

The things to consider when printing your image using your home printer are:

Maximum print size – most of home desktop printers are designed to print images with paper with standard sized paper such as A3 and A3 plus (letter sizes). But other commercial models can print larger sizes.

• Roll paper handling – all printers have an automatic feeding tray for pre cut sheets of paper but some allow you to mount rolls of paper. One advantage of this is the print size can be altered to the aspect ration of the picture. I can produce great panorama prints and computer screen shaped prints as well s other sizes.

• Bleed printing – this enables you to fill the entire sheet of paper area with an image without the usual borders that u encounter when using an inkjet printer.

• Number of inks – aside from the usual cyan, magenta, black and yellow, other inkjets use lighter versions of the color black, cyan and magenta.

• Number of ink reservoirs -  there should be two cartriges in a basic inkjet printer. One for colored , the other for black. The disadvantage to this is for the colored cartage, when you use a certain color more than the others, if you run out cyan, you will still have to replace the other colors in the same cartridge. Some inkjet printers have separate cartriges for each color.

• Maximum resolution – the number of dots per inch contributes a great deal to the image quality of your final print.

• Speed of printing – this is worth considering if you print a lot of pictures.

• Connection – if the printer uses a usb, parallel or serial port. Make sure your computer is able to connect to the printer.

• Footprint – this is the actual space the printer will take up in your desk. When positioning your printer make sure there enough space for the paper tray and other buttons you may need to access.

You can make the image look better by making adjustments to the color using the color controls located in the printer software. But this takes time and you tend to use a lot of sheets of paper to get it right. An easier solution is color management. Every device detects and displays color in a different way. Every equipment you use can interpret color in a in a variety of ways so the best way to have the same consistent outcome is to calibrate all equipment to produce the same hues. This can be done using an ICC profile which have a set of instructions for showing the printer’s color characteristics.

Make sure the screen of your computer is properly profiled. This should be the first step, because this is the first thing that you use to view your image as well as to make the necessary tweaks to make it look perfect. Si if you don’t get the color right on your computer, it may be next to impossible to get it right on your printer. What you print will also never be as exact or precise as what you see on screen. A monitor is backlit, while prints rely on reflected light when viewed. The screen image you see may have the tendency to look brighter. You may also have to take into consideration that most home printers are using CMYK ink. These can create a physical representation of what is usually an RGB file. This make the intensity of the colors get lost since there is a more limited color space. You can get a better preview of what the print will look like by using CMYK proofing option available in photo manipulation softwares such as Photoshop.

The differences in print though would not look that different from the computer screen version. The way to get better results is to create a profile for the printer.  If you specify the ink and paper based on manufacturer the profiling can be done for you automatically by specifying the type of paper and resolution you require and the color management can be done easily for you.

Custom profiling fine tunes the color output to the individual printer which is done by printing out special color targets then analyzing the exact color that is printed. These can be done by:

• Purchasing  a printer profiler software. This can be the cheapest solution. You then use a flatbed scanner to analyze the printed test target.

• A more efficient system is to use a package that provides a densitometer with the software. This reads the color values from various patches on the printed test chart.

Whatever way you decide to calibrate you colors to make it just right. It is important that your images are taken without the errors that photo manipulation cannot correct. Color control will only add to enhancing your images to make them even more beautiful.

Of course you can never be too careful when dealing with digital files. Unlike actual physical prints printed on paper, digital files have a tendency to be more vulnerable because if anything happens to digital files, you have the tendency to lose everything.

Aside from the obvious risks associated with losing digital files, you may well have to deal with other scenarios such as upgrading your computer, hard drives breaking down, computer viruses, etc. The most common being accidentally deleting your files. Sometime we tend to be trigger happy when clicking the mouse to delete and stored files you may have in your computer or memory card when freeing up space without realizing you are deleting precious memories.

Make sure you store your images in your computer s a back-up and continue to save as you make the changes in for photo manipulation software. You can even store and catalog images in CD’s.  There are instances too when you have to delete files because it is easy to accumulate hundreds, even thousands of photographs over the years and it simply is impossible to keep track of all of them.

It is important that you develop a great archival technique and habits and make sure you stick to it so you won’t be buried in years of memories lest you delete tem all accidentally and be left with nothing. Here are some useful tips to get you started:

Make sure you have successfully downloaded all the images from your camera’s memory onto your computer before you delete anything from it.

• Always keep the original file of your camera intact.
• Save images that you have already retouched using a different version of a name to create a separate file from the original.
• Back up your images in a CD, DVD, external drive or online server assoon as possible.
• Have two or more copies of important images separate from ones you have already printed out as well as store them in different places.

It’s always better to be safe than sorry. Make it a habit to give an hour or so each week to catalog your images to make it easier for you to find what you are looking for before the amount of images you accumulate over time will overwhelm you completely.

One of its major uses would be as a portfolio. When you are looking to be hired for photo services, potential clients would want to look at samples of your work. It is quite common to show your sample images using a laptop, albums or prints. By using an iPad, you can display your photos in one gorgeous medium. After all, presentation really does count. It is more striking and sleeker than a regular photo album and more intimate than a netbook or a laptop. At 9.7 inches on its widest side and at 1024 x 768 pixel resolution, the screen is large enough for viewers to fully appreciate the images. Also, it utilizes in-plane switching (IPS) technology which allows people who are obliquely viewing the screen to still get a clear view. This is perfect for when a crowd of eager people want to see the picture you took of them all at the same time.

Another asset of the iPad is that you can upload images to it right after you take your pictures. With the use of the iPad Camera Connection Kit, you have the option to import image files using a USB cable or straight from an SD card. It supports both JPEG files and RAW formats. Right after uploading, you can even send the images by 3G (you have to sign up for this extra service) or Wi-Fi to a client who might be waiting for them. A drawback is that photo editing is limited with the iPad. It will not be the best tool to do heavy post processing since iPad photo apps do not have the extensive editing features of Photoshop and other similar software.

Although the iPad is a fantastic device, it does have its weaknesses. It does not support Flash so if your online portfolio is flash based, you will not be able to access it. It also has little storage space (64GB max) compared to netbooks or laptops, and it does not have the capacity to multi-task so you can’t receive instant messages while you are previewing your photos or fixing your slideshow. Keep in mind that this is version 1.0 and that over time there will surely be improved and more feature packed versions that might address these issues.

The iPad might not replace a netbook or a laptop in terms of productivity or functionality but if your purpose in having one is to pamper yourself with the latest gadget that will give you tons of fun, and at the same time allow you to have a stunning portable portfolio that can show off your pictures in vivid detail, then this might just be the ideal gift you can give yourself.

How big a pixel can be depends on how far away the print is when viewed. Working out the maximum printable size for the number of pixels for your image is simple. You can use the tools in any manipulation software such as Photoshop and Elements. The image size window will show you the printable size  for the set number of pixels per inch. You can hen change the pixel concentration to make the image bigger or smaller.

There is a confusing question regarding pixels and dots. The resolution of digital images is measured in pixels which is an image file that has no physical dimension. It is only when pixels are displayed or printed where their size is visible.  Pixels per inch help calculate just exactly how big an image can appear for a particular use. Printers and paper are sold based on how many dots per inch (dpi) is their capacity. Printers can also have the option to allow you to choose dpi settings you require.

Dots per inch vary from pixels per inch in a way that dpi rating is a way of describing how small a dot of ink the printer can create on paper. The more dots of ink in a printed image it has, the finer the detail in the final outcome. This is only apparent when you use paper that has the capacity to show it. If you’re using ordinary paper, it would only be a waste of ink to use higher dpi settings.

Economy Normal and Fine– 360dpi is the minimum resolution setting when using normal paper and basic inkjet stock.

Photo – 720dpi and 1444dpi are reserved for good quality photo paper.

Photo – 2880dpi or higher is best use only for fine, glossy media.

When using basic calculations, an uncropped image shot using a 3 megapixel camera can be printed at just about 10×8 inches at 200ppi. This can have a maximum output of 7×5 ices if you use 300ppi as a standard. You can however still produce larger prints with a 5 megapixel camera by manipulating the image using an editing software. By using the program, you can add more pixels to in image so that it can be further enlarged without showing the tiny squares called pixelation.

This process increase the size of the image file as well so only do this to images that need upsizing and not storing. This process is called Interpolation. By using a software to  make a guess as to how to add new pixels to older ones. Upsizing means that a image produced by a digital camera can be printed out at a far greater range of sizes than the standard norm. There can also be some quality loss, Photoshop has five Interpolation processes you can choose from. Bicubic option is for all around use. Depending on the type of image, each may produce varying results. You can choose the best tool that fits an image for better quality.

The resampling process should be done before the image is sharpened. For large changes in the number of total pixels, it is worth doing the upsizing in stages than all at once.

There is no standard setting when shooting cloth since it can be various fabrics with distinct textures. From the smooth and reflective silk to the rough woolen textile with its tiny fibers, one has to be familiar with how each kind will appear in the photograph. Light can fall on fabric in different ways, as well. It can be bounced back by the shiny surface of satin or be absorbed by dark velvet. There are many ways cloth is used in a photo and these are just a few tips and information which you can keep in mind when photographing cloth:

Cloth backdrops – cloth is also the ideal material for backdrops since they light and portable, pliable and easy to use. Cloth backdrops can be anything from ordinary bed sheets to the dyed fabrics with marbleized design used for formal studio portraits. The cloth should be creaseless and wide enough to fill the frame behind the subject. Black velvet is the preferred fabric if you want your background to be a deep black and bleached muslin is ideal for pure white backgrounds.

Cloth as the subject – textiles can be fantastic subjects especially when you’re practicing your composition and lighting techniques. They are very versatile since they are pliable, have different textures, patterns, and colors. They can appear new and clean, or tattered and dirty. You can emphasize the printed design on a huge sheet of cloth or go macro and capture the frilly threads on its edges. Cloth can also be used as stock photo subjects that buyers can use as background for print ads.

When cloth is cut and sewn to form clothing, they can also make for stunning subjects:

Photographing clothing for product shots – lighting clothes can be quite tricky since clothes often have folds and wrinkles which can cause unattractive shadows. You can steam iron the fabric first to get rid of those creases and a good way to get even lighting is by shooting the clothes flat with the camera looking down from above (you would need a horizontal tripod for this). This means that the bigger the clothes, the higher the camera should be to include the entire garment. Diffused lighting from both sides of the clothing will reduce shadows and allow for balanced lighting. Another setup is to place the clothes on mannequins, or they can be photographed folded.

Photographing clothes being worn by people – clothes can be as much the center of attention as the fashion model or the beaming bride. A whole industry is focused on selling clothing and photos of these garments are to be perfect since they are used to garner sales. On the other hand, bridal gown photos should be perfect, too, for different reasons. Young ladies in prom dresses, children in costumes, men in uniform, all these people take pride in their clothes and it is your responsibility to show off what they’re wearing to full advantage in your photograph.   

Noise can appear in your photo for different reasons. One would be when you use high ISO settings on your camera. Noise signal increases with the light signal when high ISO is used, therefore your camera will capture more light to illuminate the scene, but graininess will also be more apparent. Another cause of image noise is heat. When an image sensor heats up, photons separate from the photosites and taint other photosites. Long exposures also give your image greater risk of showing image noise, since the sensor is left open to gather more image data and this includes electrical noise.

What can we do to combat image noise? One of the most commonly used methods is to use Photoshop or another photo editing program where we can remove noise and other imperfections in post-processing. However, we can lessen the possibility of noise in-camera as well, and as they say ‘an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!’

Try to shoot in the lowest possible ISO without compromising loss of adequate light. This will reduce the possibility of the appearance of image noise. Camera companies have acknowledged the issue and most of the recent camera models can accommodate high ISO settings, as high as 6400, without very obvious image noise. This is a far cry from cameras which captured unsightly image noise at ISO 800, and this was only a few years ago.

Protect your camera sensor from high heat. As mentioned earlier, heat can create havoc with photons and the sensor’s photosites. As the sensor works longer, such as with long exposures, constantly using live view, or during burst mode, it heats up and your shots will most likely include those tiny speckles you so want to avoid. Leaving the camera in the car on a hot day or under the sun will also cause the sensor to heat up and capture image noise.

If you have dark images and want to lighten them in post-processing, you might notice that doing so will increase the appearance of image noise, especially in the shadowy areas. To avoid this, try to shoot to the right side of your exposure meter instead to slightly overexpose the shot. You can darken certain over-exposed areas in the image in post-processing rather than lighten the shadowy areas. Fixing a shot in this manner will give you a clearer, noise-free image.

It may not be long until image noise will turn out a thing of the past. But until then, practice these in-camera tips to prevent, or at least reduce, image noise dotting and speckling your otherwise perfect shot.

In this age of digital photography, one can have total control over creating images. Digital cameras are so packed with features designed to help make your images appear exactly as how you want them to look. Yet, there is a huge following of photographers who have seemed to disregard the latest photographic technology, instead favoring toy cameras with their defects that produce ‘happy surprises’.

The term ‘toy’ may be misleading since these cameras can take actual photographs. These were initially made to be sold to the mass market and were inexpensive, and as such were often used as prizes or gifts. The camera body is usually almost completely made of plastic including the lens. Known for its defects such as light leaks, vignetting and soft focus, one never knows exactly how the shot will turn out when using a toy camera.

Herein lies its appeal since using a toy camera means you allow yourself to relinquish control. Furthermore, it is these very ‘defects’ that give each shot character and its uniqueness. Since the adjustment settings are very limited, one can focus on composition and artistic expression rather than dwelling on what would be the best exposure settings.

A community called ‘Lomography’ is gaining a huge following of people who prefer to ‘shoot from the hip.’ They have made it their mission to revel and share in the passion for analogue photography, and make use of toy cameras such as the medium-format Diana and the multi-lensed Supersampler.

The Apple iPhone, one of the most advanced gadgets out in the market, even offers photo apps that replicate the effects made by various toy cameras. Hipstamatic, Instagram and LomoLomo are just a few of the dozens such photo applications.

Toy cameras used to be just that, toys to be played with by children who did not care if their photos did not come out perfectly clear and spotless, as long as they captured whatever it was they enjoyed looking at. Since then, these cameras have evolved into something more creative. By using them, we can free ourselves from the confines of technical rules and instead enjoy the freedom and unpredictable beauty of toy camera photos.

But with all data from computers, the bits of data have not totally been lost. They are still in the computer but cannot be viewed. To get them back, you need a software that specializes in data-recovery. There are different types of programs that are specifically designed for this purpose because there are many people who encounter the same type of dilemma in accidentally deleting files and needing to locate and restore them. These programs hunt deleted and even corrupted files so you can access them again and be made available to you.

Always remember though, the more images you take, store and delete, the higher the probability that your files may be overwritten ad will not be retrievable. That’s why it’s always better to have a spare memory card.

Image recovery software is quite affordable and is always useful to have in the event that you encounter such a problem. These can be downloaded online. You can use these on memory cards which will then list and show thumbnails of the images that can be retrieved. Once it finds the image you are seeking from back-up files or files you intended to delete, you are then charged for the software which will finish the job.

There are mainly two types of scenarios where you will most likely be needing a data recovery software. These are:

Card corruption – corrupt files occur when the memory card is accidentally removed while the camera is still storing data. These can be more difficult to salvage than deleted ones. But it’s still possible to retrieve them.

Recovery programs have an extensive and advanced search facility that can locate files that do not have file names or are missing pieces of formatting. But it can take some time while the software sifts through your full memory card and still, there is no guarantee that it will be found. Remember, when you get a corrupt card error message on your camera, it’s always still worth a try to use the software to retrieve you data.

CD’s – these are circular, laminated plastic discs that as you may have already experienced, can jump, skip and at times, not even play. They are not perfect for storage but they still are a great ay to store your image files and make sure that the archives are protected and can be retrieved.

Some tips on CD care:

• Hold discs on the edges to avoid fingerprints on the surface.
• Store discs on special sleeves or jewel case to prevent scratches.
• Store discs away from extreme temperatures and high humidity.
• Use a marker specially designed for writing on discs. Do not use sticky labels.
• For discs that don’t play right away, wipe surface with a clean soft cloth or try another player.
• Scratches do not interfere with the stored data in the discs but rather the laser that reads it. Disc polishing kits can remove the scratches and enable the lase to read it again.

There are three basis types of lenses:

Standard/Normal – this lens tries to imitate what the human eye sees and is often used for everyday situations, travel photos and snapshots. It typically has a 50-55mm focal length and can produce great quality shots even if it doesn’t have any special perspective. These are usually the lenses you get when you buy a camera kit.

Wide Angle – this lens, as the name implies, has a larger perspective and deeper depth of field to accommodate a larger subject area. It widens the angle of view which produces a certain amount of distortion. It is often used for landscape shots, buildings, interiors and large groups since more of the subject or scene can be included in the frame. Its focal length is usually18-35mm.

Telephoto – has a narrow angle with high magnification and is ideal for long distance situations when you can’t get near the subject. Sporting events, wildlife and distant landscapes are the common subject matter taken with this type of lens. It usually has an 80-500mm focal length.

There are other lens types, called specialty lenses, and here are just a few:

Macro – this is used for extreme close-up photos and has a sharp focus at a very short distance because of its shallow depth of field. Great for tiny subjects such as insects, stamps and coins, macro lenses show minute detail in clear amazing sharpness.

Zoom – most lenses are fixed (also called ‘prime lenses’) but a zoom lens allows you to change focal length. There are two kinds, optical and digital. An optical zoom is also called a ‘true zoom’ because the zoom itself extends and retracts so the image is magnified by the lens. This type of zoom lens produces great image quality. A digital zoom simply simulates the action by enlarging the center area of the image while the length of the lens remains the same. There is a significant loss of resolution so if possible, try to avoid using the digital zoom function.

Fisheye – this is an extremely wide-angle lens type, with the view angle at 180%.  Fisheye lenses distort image perspective, making the image plane look convex. Since this is such an obvious effect, the lens is widely used (pun intended!) when you want to exaggerate the subject.